I first visited Lake Powell about two years after the completion of the Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River in Arizona. Back then, the lake was just beginning to fill up behind the dam and its water depth was only about 20% of what it is today. So, the canyon walls that line the 1900 mile shoreline of the lake were effectively more than four times as high (above the water) as they are today.

The vista was magnificent, and the experience was enhanced by knowing that much of the lake’s shoreline to date had only been visited by native Americans on foot and horseback. Yet, there I was, poking my nose into all manner of isolated back canyons, eating fresh-caught catfish grilled on an open fire, and sleeping under the stars with my dog and a few deer mice here and there who would scurry around my stores in the middle of the night, hoping to find a morsel or two that had been dropped.

At the time, I was a grad student at Washington University in St. Louis, with a summer holiday beckoning me and a bug for boating up my … well, let’s say in my shorts. So, I trailered a 14-foot Star Craft fiberglass center-console model I had custom-rigged for boat camping to Page, Arizona and the Wahweap Marina. I then set out to explore the newly-formed lake that few people east of the Mississippi had yet even heard about, let alone thought of cruising.

All in all, I spent six full weeks exploring the the canyons in which the lake was forming, all the way up from Wahweap to Bullfrog, UT (95 miles north by water), and eventually to Hite, UT (which is at the very top of the lake). There were so few boaters on the lake during that period, I often spent 3 or 4 days, once even a week without seeing another living soul. It was an experience not to be forgotten.

I’ve since returned there twice, once on assignment for Power and Motoryacht magazine and once while passing through the area whilst headed for a Bryce Canyon holiday. And each time, although the Lake Powell had undergone major changes each time due to the rising water, I came away confirmed in my belief that Lake Powell by boat ranks higher on my list of bucket trip destinations than even Grand Canyon.

— Phil Friedman

Text Copyright © 2024-2026 by Phil Friedman ― All Rights Reserved.

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Notwithstanding a host of important open questions yet to be resolved, EVs and Hybrids continue to dominate the conversation concerning energy conservation going forward — especially when it comes to yachts. And yes, I’ve personally questioned whether electric propulsion really makes energy sense when you get down to answering some of those critical questions and paying attention to the physical facts of converting, storing, and re-converting electrical energy for self-propelled vehicles.

Lately, however, having recently spent time researching “solar generators” (power generation systems composed of solar panels for generating electrical energy and batteries to store that energy until it’s required), I’ve begun to think that electrical power might, in fact, be the ideal power choice for auxiliary propulsion in certain types of sailing yachts. Here’s why.

In order to understand this issue fully, one needs to start with the right perspective. Historically, “auxiliary propulsion” was for decades, if not centuries, just that — auxiliary. If there was wind, you sailed. And you reserved auxiliary propulsion to times when there wasn’t enough wind to provide steerage. Drifting is not generally a preferred mode of operation in floating craft. Except, perhaps, for river rafts, or when a harbor or anchorage is sufficiently congested to make movement under sail iffy and difficult or downright dangerous.

Again historically, sailing vessels moved under sail, and when the wind was insufficient in strength, they either just waited for the wind to pick up or anchored (if they could), and waited. When push really came to shove, they broke out auxiliary power in the form of manpower attached to long oars.

Seriously, in the 50s, 60s, and 70s, there were plenty of cruising sailors who plied the oceans with engineless boats. For example, Lin and Larry Pardey in their Bristol Channel cutter, Seraffyn. When they needed to move without wind into or out of harbor, they used a 14’ sweep to scull her into and out of marina slips. Or they used their tender and an anchor to kedge her into or out of tight quarters.

Admittedly, Seraffyn, was only 24’ LOA, but she was certainly not a lightweight. Later when they changed out Seraffyn for the 30’ Taleisin, the Pardeys again opted to sail engineless — although they did add a tender powered by a small outboard and lashed to her quarter for towing when they needed to move into and out of really tight spaces.

Before the Pardeys, there were Eric and Susan Hiscock, who girdled the globe in Wanderer III, a 30’ Laurent Giles sloop that was fitted with an 8-HP Stuart Turner two-stroke diesel engine. At a ratio of 1-HP per (long) ton displacement, this tiny auxiliary engine was used only for entering and leaving harbors and charging batteries — although occasionally it was likely used, as well, to hunt for breezes when the winds fell to flat calm or when an anchorage or harbor was within sight and the wind faltered.

Keep in mind that was when auxiliary engines were considered just that, auxiliary — and not expected to be used for driving a heavy hull upwind in difficult seas. In those days, horsepower selection ranged from about 1 bhp to 3 bhp per ton of displacement. Which is considered seriously low by common standards today. Yet I can tell you from seven-plus years experience in my own 40’ heavy-displacement pilothouse cutter that you can do a lot with as little as 2-1/2 bhp per ton displacement, provided you have a gearbox with a sufficiently high reduction ratio and a carefully chosen and load-matched three-blade propeller.

My first Noka was a short-ended pilothouse cutter, about 33’ on her LWL, and displaced about 18 long tons. She was fitted with a Westerbeke 4-107 diesel auxiliary engine, which was rated at 37 bhp @ 2300 rpm and drove a 20” three-bladed propeller with a 1.3 pitch ratio through a Hurth 2.5:1 reduction gear. In a flat calm, that auxiliary set-up easily pushed the Noka at hull speed — with enough torque at the prop to keep her moving respectably to windward in a substantial blow and seaway.

And she also passed what is considered, in my local part of the world, the acid test, namely, being able to make reasonable headway against the tidal current under the old 17th Street Causeway Bridge in Fort Lauderdale — which could, at times, exceed three knots in that restricted narrow channel.

Granted, most sailors these days want more powerful auxiliary engines. And many rely on motorsailing when the apparent wind pulls forward of a close reach. But my point is that big horses are not absolutely essential, provided you understand the full extent of what you can get out of an engine with less horsepower, when you engineer the drive train properly.

And what does that buy you? A lot — not the least of which is the ability to change over to all-electric auxiliary propulsion using energy supplied entirely by solar generation, particularly in tropical and sub-tropical waters.

Think of it: No gasoline or diesel fuel to carry (assuming you also use an electric outboard to power your tender). No smell or volatile fumes. Less weight in machinery and consumable fuel. A significant recovery of interior volume for improved stowage. And most likely greater reliability and better longevity (again assuming a well-engineered and properly installed system).

Ten or maybe even just five years ago, putting together such an all-electric auxiliary propulsion system for a small sailing yacht — say, 25 to 40 feet LOA — would not have been easy because the supply of readily-available off-the-shelf components was limited. Today, however, pretty much everything you might need can be purchased retail over “parts counters” or via mail order. Indeed, much of what would be needed is actually available in “kit” form with pre-matched components, for example, a solar generator with matched solar panels, controllers, and connectivity components.

Join Us in a FYBBO Exploratory Project

The idea makes so much sense — at least to us — that at For Yacht Builders, Buyers, and Owners, we’re starting to investigate further the real-world practicalities of putting together just such an all-electric propulsion package — from design and engineering to component specification and sourcing, fabrication, installation, and testing.

If you’d like to follow the exploration project as it evolves — or perhaps become part of the team that carries it forward, sign up for a premium level subscription and register your interest in either a) the relevant Chat thread or b) the relevant comment thread of our premium-level DIY Q&A section. If you do that, you’ll have the opportunity to join and help shape the ongoing conversation, and you will additionally be privy to the development process all along the way. You’ll also receive proprietary copies of any plans and specs developed, including the final BOM for a planned system, as well as the final project test results (assuming we get that far).

I look forward to continuing the conversation with you on the “inside”.

— Phil Friedman

Sponsored Afterword: If you’re ready to take a serious look at electrical propulsion, consider also bolstering your knowledge base with some master-class rated instruction from an acknowledged industry expert:

This BoatHowTo self-paced video course bundle comprises both "Boat Electrics 101" and "Advanced Marine Electrics", and includes video modules on solar energy generation and electrical propulsion.

These top-rated ABYC and ISO compliant courses are created and taught by industry experts, Nigel Calder and Dr. Jan Athenstädt. Check ‘em out…

For More Info and to Buy

© 2025 by Phil Friedman and Port Royal Marketing LLC — All Rights Reserved

Welcome aboard! Feel free to browse our various sections, articles, and postings. If you like what you see — find it interesting, informative, or entertaining — please consider joining the conversation and supporting our community by subscribing to For Yacht Builders, Buyers, and Owners (FYBBO). We’re looking forward to seeing and talking with you on the “inside”.

— Phil Friedman, Editor and Publisher

Here’s a sample of what you find in FYBBO …

(From the introduction to Phil Friedman’s Ten Golden Rules for Successful New Yacht Build Projects)

As anyone who knows me can attest, I am wont to tell clients and colleagues that I can help them avoid many of the pitfalls in yacht building, not because I’m so smart, but because during thirty-some years in the industry, I stepped into most of them myself.

I’ve watched yacht-building projects run over schedule and budget more times than I care to admit. I’ve seen projects devolve into verbal and business wars between buyer and builder. And I’ve seen a huge amount of waste — of good will, effort, and money.

Indeed, I’ve come to view much yacht building as a concatenation of crises, a process in which one moves continually from solving one major problem to solving the next. That is the way it’s been, that is the way it is, and that is the way it will likely always be. There is little to be done about it, mostly because yacht build projects are quite complex, made ever much more so by the fact that multiple competing egos are often involved, creative and otherwise, and the demands of buyers are high and, just as often, highly idiosyncratic.

What you don’t ever want to do in a yacht build project is add to the problems unnecessarily by failing to take certain key steps at the beginning, steps that will go a long way toward increasing the probability of achieving a successful completion.

This mini-book is about some of those project-saving steps. I am not under any illusion that what I say here is exhaustive of the topic. However, I believe you will find that which follows to be exceedingly useful in making a yacht building project more like what it should be: a boost for the spirit, and a joy to be savored.

However, before you read the following in an attempt to arm yourself with the Ten Golden Rules for a successful yacht building project, I’d like to caution you about one other matter. It is one thing to know what actions to take, and quite another to actually take them. It is one thing to know what you have to do, and quite another to actually do it. My favorite example in this regard is the ubiquitous weight study.

A weight study — and a real-time as-built weight tally — is neither brain surgery, nor atomic physics. Actually, it falls among the least difficult, and most routine of operations integral to a yacht design and construction project. Indeed, virtually every naval architect and engineer, and every boatbuilder worth the term knows how to perform one.

Yet, I venture that less than 50% of yacht build projects in the world are actually preceded by a full and proper weight study, and fewer than 25% are actually accompanied by a real-time, as-built weight tally. Why? Because although the procedures are simple enough, in the heat of dealing with the chain of crises that usually comprise a yacht building project, builders too often neglect to do that which they know perfectly well they should be doing.

The key element to understand here is that knowing what to do is not enough, unless you actually do it. There is simply no way around that truth.

Of the important lessons I’ve learned through the years, the one which stands out most, is that you simply can’t do everything. You can’t anticipate and cover every contingency. You can’t make yourself, your project, or your plan perfectly bulletproof — if that is, you are ever to get around to actually implementing that plan or completing the project.

The best you can do is take a relatively few, but select preparatory steps, chosen to give you the best edge for achieving success — however you may define “success”. It is with that in mind, that the following Ten Golden Rules are presented for your consideration. — PLF

Coming soon…

Ten Golden Rules for Successful Major Refits details how to evaluate whether to undertake a given refit, plan the Scope of Work, negotiate agreements with boatyards and marine services contractors, track and evaluate the work, minimize costs and keep them under control, and much more. By veteran shipyard manager, Phil Friedman, author of the widely praised Ten Golden Rules for Successful New Build Projects.

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Subscribing gives you full access to our newsletter and our publishing hub which includes a large library of previously published articles and offers an broad array of auxiliary discussion forums and other related services, including a DIY Q&A, a Travel Forum, marine tech master classes, and a marine business blog and marine mastermind-style forum for industry professionals.

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By subscribing, you will become part of a community of people who share your interests in yacht and boat building, and enthusiasm for yachting and boating.

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Subscribing also affords you free access to discussions by professional and DIY builders and re-fitters, who share their knowledge and experience to the mutual benefit of all our subscribers and members.

Secure professional consultation and advice for your project(s) via our DIY and Build/Refit Advisor threads in our dedicated Chat section.

This is pretty much like having your own professional yachtbuilding and refit consultant or project manager on-call to help you with specific issues and/or point you to where you can obtain further expert information and professionally competent help.

Subscribing FREE gets you a lot. Paying for a premium level subscription gets you even more. So please, take a few minutes to check it out. You can always unsubscribe with just a click, at any time. I look forward to welcoming you aboard.

— Phil Friedman, Editor and Publisher

You’ve seen this. You’ve thought about it.

Maybe you told yourself you’d get to it.

You’re running out of time:

West Marine’s BOGO Lewmar winch sale wraps up on March 31st …

And once it’s gone, it’s gone. No extensions. No rain checks.

Just the sailors who acted, and the ones who didn’t.

UNLOCK THIS AND OTHER DEALS

Copyright © 2026 by Port Royal Marketing LLC ― All Rights Reserved

At least once a week, a question comes across my computer screen about how to back-up solar power on cloudy days or at times during the year when there just isn’t enough sunshine available. This is not a question about the merits of solar power on a boat. It’s a question about how to create a sensible back-up alternative source of electrical power when moored or at a dock.

The other day, I noticed an interesting post on Facebook in which a sailor/DIY-craftsman was speculating about assembling a small diesel engine to run a standard alternator to provide 110vac current at times when the solar power system on his sailing auxiliary doesn’t keep up with demand. He opined that such a rig would be preferable to using his inboard propulsion engine in lieu of a stationary genset in such circumstances. He said,

Here is a 5 HP gas engine hooked up to an alternator 120 amp 12 volt, but I want to build one that is the same alternator but with a small diesel engine on it to put on my sailboat. My sailboat does have solar on it but there are days when it is overcast and the solar panels cannot keep up. I think this is a better alternative than running the engine. Would like some comments on this what do you think of it.

— Bruce Gripp, (https://www.facebook.com/groups/Sailing/permalink/3645167569056556)

I commented that while it might not be a bad idea, I thought there was a better solution — one which avoids adding the weight of a second engine, yet still avoids the potential problems a propulsion engine might suffer if used for extended periods of time as a stationary electrical generating plant. Here’s what I wrote:

If it were me, I’d look at the possibility of adding a second high-output alternator with a simple clutch to the propulsion engine for stationary battery charging. With a small engine, a high output alternator will by itself provide sufficient load to prevent the engine from running under-loaded and possibly coking up. While clutching out that load when running under power will avoid potentially overloading the engine when using it for ship’s propulsion.

The advantages of solar power are numerous. But there are times and circumstances when a more-or-less average solar power system won’t generate enough current to meet demand. So it makes sense to have a back-up available. A wind generator would be, IMO, too mechanically complicated and have too little output for the application in question. Moreover, such units are pretty bulky and almost as costly as a stationary liquid-fueled genset.

Against that, the back-up generating system outlined above could be economically fabricated using mostly off-the-shelf parts. The only slightly thorny issue might be finding an appropriate clutch to enable the high-output alternator to free-wheel when not being pressed into service. But since a simple mechanical clutch would do, I that issue should be relatively straightforward to resolve. And my guess is the cost to fab and install the setup envisioned would overall be less than building a makeshift genset. It would also— be significantly lighter and more compact than other alternatives since it would require only enough space for a second alternator.

I don’t at this point know if there is a proprietary manufactured system of the type currently on the market. But if there is enough interest among our readers, we’ll follow up with a search. And we’ll see if an engineer or two among our membership might draw up some plans and specs for a custom fabrication and installation. So do let me know what you think.

— Phil Friedman

Text Copyright © 2023 by Phil Friedman ― All Rights Reserved.

Image credit - Bruce Gripp

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I can tell you that sail-handling loads are probably the major determining factor in a sailor’s decision to cross-over to power boating, perhaps even to simply swallow the anchor entirely.

Check Out the BOGO Winch Sale

Recently, I watched a couple of my friends reluctantly approach a point of decision as to whether to finally call it quits on sailing. Their boat was not a super-yacht. It wasn’t even a “large” yacht. At most, it would be considered a medium-sized sailing cruiser with a traditional mainsail that comprised a large proportion of her total sail plan.

Except for the physical effort required to raise and tension the large main, they loved the boat, from bow to stern. But they had tired of always having to be on the lookout for crew to help handle her recalcitrant mainsail. And they were on the verge of packing it all in …

When some reflective thought and a bit of research brought them to a straightforward solution: install an electric winch to do the really hard work and keep their beloved boat. Problem solved.

Sure, a new winch or winches was not exactly an inexpensive alternative. However, it was genuinely economical when compared to the dollar and emotional costs of giving up the boat they loved and, maybe, even sailing itself. In the end, they were really happy with the outcome.

If their experience hits home, you should consider upgrading by installing electric halyard or a more powerful, two-speed, self-tailing manual winch on your main halyard. And while you’re at it, on your primary sheets, as well.

Indeed, now might just be the ideal time to do that — as West Marine is currently running a Buy-One-Get-One-Free sale on Lewmar winches.

Check it out here ⤵️

Check Out the BOGO Winch Sale

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Copyright © 2026 by Port Royal Marketing LLC ― All Rights Reserved

INTRODUCTION

The observations and opinions presented here are conveyed from one boating enthusiast to another, solely for informational purposes. They are in no way warranted or guaranteed to produce the desired results. That said, I hope and expect these suggestions will be of genuine use to you. Because in my experience, insight into the realities of sales situations often pays cash dividends. Fair winds, safe harbors, and … good boat hunting!  ― PLF  

1. Before the show, develop a clear idea of what you expect the boat’s mission to be.

The broader the boat’s mission, the more expensive she will be overall. And that is not the end of it. The broader her mission, the less well she will perform for any subset of functions that may, in fact, be critical to achieving your primary objectives. The goal of detailing a mission is to end up paying only for what you need and require and not end up paying for features you won’t need and are likely never to use.

For example, if you will likely use a prospective boat for day trips 95% of the time, a boat with a full cabin and elaborate accommodations will generally cost more to buy and operate than a vessel built strictly for day trips. Moreover, the cabin boat will not make as good a fishing boat as an open or T-top center console model.

2. Understand the difference between MSRP and average selling price.

MSRP (or Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price) is, as the term suggests, a target retail price set by the manufacturer of the boat. Many people think that the MSRP necessarily bears a relationship to what it costs the manufacturer the boat, but more often than not, it doesn’t. The MSRP is usually set in relation to what the manufacturer sees as its primary competition in the market.

The average selling price is what, in most circumstances, you can buy the boat for from a dealer. The difference between the two represents a “discount” from MSRP. However, don't make the mistake of fixating on how big the discount is. What really counts when comparing two prospective boats to one another, is the actual bottom-line purchase price, excluding only sales tax and registration costs. That is, if boat A is directly comparable in all respects to boat B, but has a significantly higher MSRP, the bottom line may be that boat A still offers less value per dollar of price paid ― even if you can negotiate a higher discount from MSRP. Therefore, it's essential to keep good notes, so that you are always comparing oranges to oranges (i.e., same or very similar size, power, and other features).

3. How much is the dealer discount?

Obviously, the dealer pays less than MSRP for the boat he sells to you. The difference between MSRP and what the dealer pays is referred to as the dealer discount. On production boats, the dealer discount is usually between 20% and 25%. In some rare cases it may be as little as 15%, and some rare cases, manufacturers may give their stronger dealers additional volume bonuses that boost effective discount to 28% to 30%. It’s important to keep the dealer’s margin in mind because that is what, more than anything else, governs what you may be able to buy the boat for.

4. What is the dealer’s margin on options and accessories?

Sometimes, boat manufacturers extend to the dealer an additional 5% discount (form MSRP) on factory-installed options and accessories. When this is done, it’s in order to provide the dealer with additional opportunity to build profit into a retail deal, since, speaking candidly, the dealer margin on a new production boat is pretty thin to begin with ― especially given the costs to the dealer of floor-planning (the financing of inventory), cleaning, maintenance, secure storage, warranty, and insurance.

In order to assess whether you have the prospective purchase price down as low as it can reasonably be expected to get, you also need to try to determine if the dealer is picking up an additional $5K or $10K (or maybe even more) on your options and accessories package. And if so, it’s not out of order to seek to recover for yourself at least 50% of that “bonus” margin. That said, you cannot reasonably expect a dealer to sell you a boat at, or at less than his or her cost, except perhaps in special circumstances, one of which we'll talk about later.

 5. Understanding “allowances” (on built-to-order boats).

When buying a boat that will be built-to-order, allowances sometimes appear as line items in the sales contract. The idea is to preliminarily define a cost that is not yet fully determined ― for example, an electronics package that has not yet been fully specified or ordered by the buyer. Thus the use of allowances in a sales order is an entirely reasonable procedure.

However, including one or more allowances in a build-to-order contract really turns it into a kind of estimate. Therefore, when a sales contract contains one or more allowances, it’s essential to have a specific, albeit preliminary bill of materials (BOM) attached to any included allowance. For that is the only way to judge whether the allowance is sufficient to pay for what you may eventually want to include.

Keep in mind that, if the BOM attached to the allowance is nowhere near what you want eventually to include, then it is likely the final delivered price will end up being more than the nominal total price shown on the sales contract.

6. How do boat show sales incentives work, and are they real?

Yes, boat show sales incentives are real. There is a significant cost involved in moving a boat to a show and then moving it somewhere else after the close of the show. How much exactly depends on how far away the manufacturer is from the show involved and whether the boats leftover after a show will have to be moved to other than a local dealership location. Either way, it’s always a case of high cost versus higher cost. Consequently, both the boat's manufacturer and the dealer involved are incentivized to sell the boat at the show, rather transport somewhere else when the show is over. And that works to your advantage when negotiating a boat show purchase, provided you are aware of it and how important it can be.

7. What day or days of a show are the best for negotiating a deal?

Obviously, at a boat show, you’re looking to capitalize on the reluctance of exhibitors to transport their boats long distances back to either a dealership or to the factory. Which might reasonably lead you to conclude that the last day of the show is the best day on which to push to close a deal. But played correctly, you might find that the first day of the show works just as well, or even better. Here’s why.

Waiting for the last day of the show gives the seller(s) time to accumulate a longer list of “hot prospects”, and that might lead them to want to work those prospects after the show ― especially if the manufacturer and the dealer involved have managed to make a few to several sales during the show. In my experience, negotiating seriously on the first day of the show ― before anyone really knows how things are going to go ― presents a pricing opportunity for an assured, decisive buyer, particularly if you make clear to the seller that they can continue to show the boat for the remainder of the show, provided only that you have a firm, fixed, deposited agreement to take delivery of the boat when the show closes.  Keep in mind, as well, that it doesn’t harm a seller to be able to say his or her product is so hot, one sold the very first day of the show.

8. When are the new models of interest coming off the manufacturer’s production line? And when will they be available at the dealer?

Production boatbuilders often make improvements to their products on a running basis throughout the model year. Which means it is important to know not only the nominal model year of a boat you’re considering, but also when during the nominal model year that boat was actually manufactured. And it’s important to know when the next boats in the current or next nominal model year will be arriving at the dealer.

Note that USCG regulations allow for a 14-month model year, beginning June 1 and ending July 31st of the following year. This allows boat manufacturers the flexibility to close out old model production while beginning the new model year. However, it also means is that a new boat of the current model year could, in fact, be more than a year old — a fact that, if it applies, marks that 13- or 14-month old “new” boat for a deeper discount from MSRP. Otherwise, why not just wait for the next shipment of new models to come down the pike?

Still another reason for seeing if you can find out when a boat was actually built during the model year is when it's been on "floorplan" financing. When boats are floor-planned, their purchase from the manufacturer by the dealer is financed by a third-party lender. The transaction is somewhat complicated to detail fully, but for our purposes here, you only need to understand that floorplan lenders generally want to see inventory make a full “turn” annually, that is, old inventory changed out completely for new inventory every year — even if the cash generated by selling the old inventory goes right back into financing new inventory.

The floor-plan lender doesn't concern itself with whether the dealer makes a profit on sales, only that existing inventory does not "age" more than a year. Which puts significant pressure on the dealer holding over-aged inventory to cut a really attractive deal in order to move it.

9. Be prepared to write, at least, a hefty deposit check, but don’t let your emotions take over.

You never truly know whether a dealer is going to accept a skinny offer until he or she is faced with the proffer of a substantial, firm deposit. So, if you’re serious about buying a boat at the show and thereby realizing the potential savings involved, you need to come prepared to pen a hefty deposit check, say, 10% to 20% of the purchase price, depending on how big that price tag is.

Moreover, if you are to achieve what we might call a “killer deal” on a boat, you need to learn to recognize and resist high-pressure selling gambits. Like, “… this one’s going to sell by this afternoon.” Or like, “… there are two other buyers for this one in the wings, just waiting for their wives get to the show so they can see this baby.” To mention just a couple of many.

The selection and purchase of a new boat is an emotion-driven life experience. And you may feel that if you don’t buy a given boat right now, you’ll miss a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. However, if you really want to make a great deal, keep reminding yourself there will always be another boat. Because there will be — especially when it comes to production boats.

10. Some savvy negotiating tactics (and how to use them).

My favorite is what I call “The Recalcitrant Spouse Gambit”. Over the years, My wife and I have pretty much perfected and used this approach in all manner of buying situations, including when negotiating on boat purchases, but also in the case of major expenditures such as automobiles, real estate leases, and so on. It works like this …

One spouse takes on the role of an enthusiastic would-be buyer, while the other shakes his or her head no, no, no and lets it be known that the price is too high and that the boat is deficient in some feature or features. This performance needs to take place in the open, but nominally private conversations between the purchasing “partners”. The tactic is effective in knocking even seasoned sales professionals off their stride, if for no other reason than it creates an unfamiliar sales scenario in which one partner wants to buy and the other doesn’t, primarily but not exclusively, because of price. The  recalcitrant spouse gambit allows you, as the “good cop” to accept all of the arguments the salesperson brings to bear, while blaming the other spouse for being irrationally stubborn. Which leaves only price as the sole obstacle they have to overcome.

Another favorite of mine is to make sure that you are conspicuously carrying the brochures of the major competition to the boat you're interested in buying. And BTW, having some scribbled notes on those brochures helps bolster the salesperson’s perception that you are talking seriously to his or her competition.

Finally, a more extreme, but again useful tactic can be to have a cell call triggered during your discussions over the boat you want, in which you say something like, “Well, yes, that's really an attractive price. But I’m tied up right now, and I won’t be able to come by until later....” You can then turn back to the salesperson for the boat you want and say, "Now, where were we?"

Granted, some of these tactics are less than forthright. But the fact is, whatever you might do along these lines to improve your negotiating edge is far less devious than what the marketers and the sales guys have likely already done or said with respect to the boat you’re looking to buy. So personally, I wouldn't lose too much sleep over it. For all is fair in war and dealing on a boat purchase.

― Phil Friedman

Bonus Suggestions Added for This Updated Edition:

11. Consider carefully before committing to a deal for a new boat officially numbered with the previous model year.

New boats from a prior model year — even those with zero running hours clocked — may seem to be a good deal, particularly if the manufacturer hasn’t upgraded the current year’s model much, if at all. However, unless the price at which you can buy last year’s model is significantly less than the price you’d have to pay for this year’s model, the “bargain” priced last-year’s model is not really a bargain at all.

For a new boat from the previous model year, the reduction from current pricing has to be an amount equal to, or exceeding the average amount of first-year depreciation. This is because, when it comes time to trade in or sell the boat, it’s actual cash value will be pegged to its model year, and you will not recover much, if anything for the 50 or 100 use hours that may have been avoided during its unused year in inventory. Always keep in mind that, for example, a 2023 boat is a 2023 boat in 2024, even if, at that point, she has clocked zero running hours.

Beyond that, even if the offered selling price represents a reduction significantly greater than the average depreciation for the (model) year or years the boat has been carried unsold in inventory, the deal may still not be a good one — unless, that is, you can confirm in writing with the boat manufacturer and all relevant equipment manufacturers that the original new product warranties will run for their full original period, beginning on the date of your purchase.

12. See if the seller will accept your use of a cash-back credit card or cards for the deposit and/or the full payment.

If you have enough credit available on one or more cash-back credit cards, and if you can get the dealer/seller to agree to accept payment via credit card for some or all of the purchase price, you can pick up 1.5% to 2.0% in rebate for whatever you charge to your card or cards. Just be sure that a) your cash-back rebate is not limited by card rules (which differ from card issuer to card issuer), and b) that the seller is not jacking up his selling price to offset the fees he or she may be paying to the credit card company for the transaction.

Postscript: Would you like to talk during the upcoming show or otherwise? Direct message me for an appointment or email me at: phil@portroyalgroup.com

Keep in mind that the assertions and opinions presented here are not in any way intended or represented to be legal or business advice. They are a distillation of more than two decades of accumulated practical experience in the recreational marine industry, as VP-Operations for Hansen Marine, a multi-location Hatteras/Bertram dealership and chain of boatyards on the West Coast of Florida; followed by several years as the President and CEO of Palmer Johnson Yachts, a major world-class megayacht builder and shipyard; and more recently as General Manager and Director of Manufacturing for Tartan-Legacy Yachts, a long-established production manufacturer of sailing and motor yachts. ― PLF

Copyright © 2024-2026 by Phil Friedman ― All Rights Reserved.

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West Marine’s Lewmar BOGO Running now through March 31st …

Our community speaks for itself:

“I have a Tartan 33, and with the West Marine Lewmar BOGO sale, I upgraded to larger, self-tailing winches. And I cannot tell you how thrilled I am!

Yes, it's a major purchase, and yes, it stung for a bit to shell out that much money… But it was a great deal! As with many other experiences in my life, my feeling about such things is: you feel the pain once; the pleasure lasts forever.”

— Tom C., Coconut Grove, FL

“My wife and I have been sailing for many years, and one thing that kept getting harder on our boat was raising the mainsail. It’s a big, heavy sail, and even in the best of circumstances it was always a challenge. As we got older, it started to feel more and more daunting.

We were honestly getting close to giving up sailing altogether, because hoisting that sail had become such a struggle. Then a friend at our sailing club suggested installing a Lewmar self-tailing electric winch.

That turned out to be one of the best decisions we’ve ever made for our boat. Now we can raise the mainsail at the push of a button. It’s simple, smooth, and takes so much of the strain out of getting underway.

For us, it’s made all the difference. We’re still out there sailing and enjoying our time on the water, and I’m not sure that would be the case without it.”

— Bill K., Toronto, Ont

UNLOCK THIS AND OTHER DEALS

Copyright © 2026 by Port Royal Marketing LLC ― All Rights Reserved

Deep discounts on high-quality winches like these are rare. An excellent selection of popular sizes in 1-speed and 2-speed self-tailing models, in both chrome-plated bronze and hard black anodized aluminum, is available for immediate delivery, on a buy-one-get-one-free basis, during West Marine’s annual Lewmar winch sale.

UNLOCK THIS AND OTHER DEALS

Copyright © 2026 by Port Royal Marketing LLC ― All Rights Reserved

Maids Aboard has launched its new, professional level yacht interior cleaning service in Southeast Florida. Created specifically for yachts, the new service brings structured systems, trained and insured crews, and national franchise- level professionalism to the yachting community.

Maids Aboard is an offshoot of the nationally recognized cleaning franchise, The Maids, a long-established brand known across the United States for its team-based cleaning system and commitment to quality.

The new company was founded by Fabian Montoya Fendt, President of The Maids of Broward and Palm Beach Counties, who saw firsthand the demand from yacht owners seeking consistent, reliable cleaning services tailored to marine environments.

“Yacht owners invest heavily in their vessels, but many struggle to find interior cleaning services that truly understand the difference between a home and a yacht,” Montoya Fendt explained. “Maids Aboard was created to bridge that gap with professional systems adapted specifically for yachts.”

Service offerings include:

Light Interior Clean-Up: Ideal for post-cruise refreshes and ongoing maintenance.

Standard Interior Cleaning: Comprehensive care for cabins, salons, galleys, and heads.

Deep Detailing Services: Thorough interior detailing for seasonal prep, special events, boat shows, or resale staging.

Maids Aboard fully insured crews are specifically trained to work efficiently within marina environments, while respecting dock regulations and the unique materials found in luxury yachts.

Serving Southeast Florida’s Boating Community

Operating initially across Southeast Florida, Maids Aboard is positioned to become a trusted partner for yacht owners, captains, brokers, and dealers seeking reliable interior cleaning with franchise-level standards and local leadership.

Visit the Maids Aboard official website for a quotation and scheduling.

Visit Maids Aboard

Or call: 305-490-3377

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For Sale: 2014 Robalo 26 Walkaround (refit + upgrades)

The time has come. Due to changes in how we expect to use a boat going forward, my wife and I have decided to sell our 2014 Robalo 265 Walkaround.

She has been a genuinely easy boat to love: a rugged, offshore-capable pocket cruiser that also happens to fish extremely well. If you’re looking for something manageable in size, but not “small” in capability, this is that boat.

Why she works, cruising or fishing

• Solidly-built hull with a 9’+ beam and plenty of stability and range

• Large cockpit with great stowage and seating (fold-down aft bench lounge clears space for fishing)

• Hardtop-sheltered bridge

• Bright cabin with two berths

• Compact galley setup and an enclosed stand-up head (wet-head shower)

Some of the upgrades we’ve made

• New stainless Isotherm refrigerator

• New microwave oven

• New Webasto A/C system (6,000 BTU Fast-Kool model)

• 2,000W pure sine wave inverter for galley power (and occasional brief cabin cool-down by AC) at anchor

• Portable cockpit shade with telescoping carbon-fiber support poles (erects neatly using aft side-deck rod sockets)

Also equipped for fishing

• Taco adjustable downriggers

• Live-bait well

• Large cockpit fish box
  

Located: Pompano Beach, FL

Engines: Twin Yamaha 200 4-stroke outboards [400 HP total / 540 Hours]

If you know someone who wants a capable, comfortable 26-footer that can do overnights, long weekends, as well as real offshore days, please send them my way. I’d really like to see her go to an owner who will use her the way she was meant to be used.

Fair winds and safe harbors
— Phil Friedman

SEE FULL DETAILS AND PHOTO ARRAY

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The central objective of this forum is to facilitate the free and open exchange of key industry information, expert opinion, and relevant professional and lay experience, for the mutual benefit of all our subscribers.

To ask a question or initiate a discussion, enter it in the comments to this post.

We receive real-time notices of comments that appear, and we will keep track of the responses, which should also be posted in the comments thread here.

We’ll moderate and track the discussions.

Those which are short or relatively simple to resolve will be moved to a DIY Archive that will be kept to serve as a help resource going forward.

Those which are more complex will be moved to our Chat section, where exchanges are real-time and it’s easier to keep the conversation organized and updated. When resolved or talked out, they will also be moved to the DIY Archive.

Please, let’s keep the questions and discussions reasoned, rational — and relatively significant in a boatbuilding and refitting context.

In other words, please avoid the trivial. If you want to know what the best waterproof cockpit speaker in the world is, that is best asked on Facebook or researched on Amazon. But if you want to know, for example, how to layup epoxy carbon fiber or where it’s worth the extra labor and expense, or the differences are between linear polyurethane and acrylic modified urethane coatings, well, those are the kind of questions we hope to be able to answer for you here in the DIY Forum section of For Yacht Builders, Buyers, and Owners.

That said, feel free to join the conversation. Cheers!

— Phil Friedman, Editor and Publisher

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Copyright © 2023 by Phil Friedman — All Rights Reserved

I wanted to reach out with a message of gratitude.

Thank you for your support throughout this year.

Thank you for staying connected, for your thoughtful engagement, and for the trust you've placed in our relationship.

Whether we've collaborated directly, exchanged ideas, or simply remained in touch through our conversations, know that your involvement is genuinely valued and has contributed meaningfully to my year.

I wish you a restful and fulfilling holiday season.

As we move into the new year, I look forward to our continued connection.

With warm regards,

— Phil Friedman

Peter Swanson, Editor and Publisher of the Loose Cannon newsletter on Substack, recently reported that the latest attempt to revive the nearly moribund operations of Catalina Yachts (Largo, Florida) appears to have fallen apart just a few months after being initiated.

The Loose Cannon piece, coupled with all the industry hoopla at the recent Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, got me to thinking about what can only be described (politely) as a “general lack of financial transparency” in the boat and yacht building sector.

More on that in a moment. But first, as the annual series of South Florida boat shows kicked off last week with FLIBS, the current state of the U.S. economy, tariffs and, specifically, the yacht manufacturing sector, led me to ponder the danger signals that a boat builder or manufacturer may be facing imminent business failure.

This is especially important to potential boat buyers because boat buyers who order a new boat for construction and delivery at a later date almost always end up in the position of being unsecured creditors of the seller. And that means their deposits and any “progress” payments they’ve paid to date at exceedingly high risk in the event of a builder’s financial failure. The same also applies to any marketing entity (dealer, etc.) that may stand contractually in the sales chain between the buyer and manufacturer in question.

If it looks like a red flag and waves like a red flag…

Ironically, the single most telling sign of an impending financial failure is a backlog of multiple pre-sold or deposit-paid units sitting unfinished on the builder’s shop floor. Never mind the common wisdom that a bunch of builds in process are an indication of a thriving business.

A backlog of unfinished units, without any visible, significant progress being made toward completing them for delivery to their buyers, signals that the manufacturer is out of working capital. Since otherwise, the company would be finishing the builds in order to secure the remaining payments due. And a lack of working capital is a condition no company can survive for any serious length of time.

In such cases, if there is to be any chance of effecting a turnaround, without resort to bankruptcy filings, it’s essential to structure a creative financial plan that includes eliciting the agreement of secured and unsecured financial and commercial creditors, as well as the agreement and cooperation of the workforce (which is frequently owed back wages), plus buy-in from any existing dealers (who may be awaiting delivery of boats), as well as the consent of any boat buyers involved.

Even then, a successful turnaround generally requires fresh, but significantly experienced, management that can run lean with one primary short-term goal in mind, namely, the completion and delivery of all pending unfinished builds. This because completion and delivery generates necessary cash flow. Anything less sets up a turnaround effort for almost certain failure.

A reasonable level of caution and common sense…

If you’re a potential (or actual) boat buyer, what does all this mean for you?

If you’re contracting to have a boat or yacht to be built for you to order with, say, 10% down and the balance upon delivery of the finished vessel, then read no further. From a buyer’s standpoint, that is generally about as good as it gets.

True, few buyers would be elated over losing $10K on a $100K, and even less so losing $100K on an unfulfilled million dollar contract. But to put 10% at risk is usually manageable for someone in a position to “afford” the full-ticket sale price of a discretionary luxury purchase, in the first place.

However, if you, as a buyer, are required to put up more than that as a deposit, or if you’re required to make periodic “progress” payments during the build, you have to be particularly careful when entering into a purchase for a boat or yacht that is to be built-to-order.

First and foremost, you must have a clear written agreement as to delivered price, all included options and features, and a firm final delivery date (often called a “drop dead date”), after which you have the option of cancelling the order and receiving a full refund of all monies paid to date.

Note that I said you should have “the option”. You may ultimately decide that, even though the builder is far behind schedule on completion and delivery, you really want the boat and are prepared to wait, just not forever. The drop-dead date in the sales contract assures that you won’t have to wait ad infinitum for your boat because the manufacturer just can’t get it done. And if you think that can’t happen, just take a look at the history of builders like Catalina which end up stalled with a dozen or more partially completed boats on their workshop floor, boats being built on contracts with significant payments outstanding to collect when those units are completed and delivered. Again, more on that later.

There are several important additional steps you can (and should) take to protect your interests, under the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC), which has been adopted, in part or in whole, by most states in the U.S. These steps are straightforward and focus on establishing a preferred first security interest in the boat during the period of time it is still in-process and not yet in your possession. If you don’t achieve this type of secured interest in the work-in-process, your deposit and any interim payments could be subject to the superseding claims of secured creditors, should the builder fail financially.

This preferred security interest will extend to all monies paid to date by you, the buyer, in the form of deposits and progress payments. And will grant you a first secured mortgage on the vessel, which lien will have to be “perfected” (properly filed) with the state where the builder is registered to do business.

Of course, you will not only have to bear the added cost(s) of proceeding under the UCC, you will generally have to push hard to gain the necessary cooperation from the dealer and/or the manufacturer involved. But keep in mind that you will need to gain cooperation from the dealer and the manufacturer before you place the order and pay your initial deposit.

With a preferred first security interest and a perfected lien, you will stand ahead of unsecured creditors for satisfaction of your claim in the event that a company is liquidated in bankruptcy or the company assets are sold in “liquidation for the benefit of creditors”. Except, of course, for the bankruptcy lawyers and court costs.

Your preferred first secured interest and lien would mean you would stand in line before and have to be paid out fully before any of the proceeds of liquidation went to satisfy unsecured claims, for example, those for materials and fittings supplied by vendors to the boat manufacturer.

Nothing in life is completely without some risk…

Admittedly, it’s not a perfect solution, as there might not be sufficient value in liquidation to pay you out 100%. And it certainly won’t get you a completed boat. The most it does is preserve your investment to date. You would then need to take possession of the build in process and find a way to get the boat or yacht completed. Still, it’s better than the alternative which, for unsecured creditors, is usually losing everything they’ve invested.

Whether what you stand to get, in the instance, would be worth the effort and hard costs of establishing a preferred first security interest, depends on how much money is at stake. And that depends on your net worth and resources.

If you’re in a position to sustain, say, a five hundred thousand dollar loss without much noticing it, then perhaps the extra time and costs of obtaining and perfecting a preferred first secured interest isn’t worth the extra cost and effort. Understand that it’s entirely your call. Just don’t delude yourself into thinking a business failure will never overtake the firm manufacturing your boat. Yes, it never happens… until it does. And nobody ever loses money in a boat deal gone bad… until they do.

— Phil Friedman

Copyright © 2025 by Phil Friedman and Port Royal Group — All Rights Reserved

Postscript:

Read the latest update on the Catalina Yachts saga, from Peter Swanson and the Loose Cannon newsletter:

Read the Loose Cannon article

If you’re interested in the subject of transparency in the boat and yacht building sector worldwide, you might also want to look at the Loose Cannon article on the suit that’s recently been filed against Bering Yachts (Turkey) by two YouTube boat reviewers":

Read about the Bering Yachts suit

Author’s Notes:

1) The author of this article (namely, yours truly) was an active consultant in the acquisition of the assets of Tartan/Legacy Yachts by Seattle Northwest Yachts LLC in 2020, and later oversaw the completion and delivery of nineteen new yachts that, at the time of that acquisition, sat in various stages of in-completion, as Tartan/Legacy Yachts circled the drain.

2) Nothing in this article is presented as legal advice, but rather is purely the expression of personal opinion based on more than 40 years experience in the recreational marine industry. Anyone placing a substantial deposit or other payment with a boat dealer or manufacturer for building a boat to order, with a future delivery date, is advised to first review the potential issues and suggested remedies delineated here with a lawyer who has the necessary and appropriate experience. — PLF

Copyright © 2025 by Phil Friedman and Port Royal Group — All Rights Reserved

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Most operating problems on a boat can be traced to its electrical system. Water — especially seawater — and electrical components are not comfortable companions. And introducing vibration into the mix, when running, makes things worse.

Of all the failures that occur in boats and yachts, electrical malfunctions, due to one cause or another, are by far the most common. Yet, they are among the most readily prevented and corrected, that is, if you know what you’re doing.

Confidently troubleshoot most electrical problems (or install your newest holiday electronics) on your own. Even if you’re not a DIY kinda boater, speak with confidence with your boatyard or mobile tech.

BoatHowTo Electrics 101 and Advanced Electrics are taught by Nigel Calder and Jan Athenstädt, acknowledged experts who have fifty years combined experience in boat and yacht electrics. The courses they’ve created can lead you from being an electrical neophyte to a skilled journeyman-level boat electrician.

Enroll at BoatHowTo

Electrics 101 is packed with practical insight and real-world experience. Sixty-plus self-paced core video lessons take you from the basics of electricity through to systems design, installation, maintenance, and repair. Bonus lessons discuss topics such as alternative energy, LED lighting, and Lithium batteries.

For those who want to step up (including boatyard techs) BoatHowTo’s Advanced Marine Electrics reaches beyond basic DC systems to such topics as generators and AC current aboard, corrosion prevention, lightning protection, digital switching systems, and electric propulsion.

Working professionals can obtain supplementary continuing education credits (CEUs) and official certification.

Master your boat’s electrical system. Enroll today.

Enroll at BoatHowTo

— Fair winds and safe harbors from Phil Friedman and Port Royal Marketing

Copyright © 2025 by Port Royal Marketing LLC ― All Rights Reserved

[Sponsored Content]

I’m hearing from boat owners who found some surprisingly solid deals at West Marine this week. Some up to 50% off. Even in categories where you don’t often see much of a price drop.

So this is a good time to check out West Marine online, whether you are looking for electronics, gifts, or practical items for this holiday season. Remember, these Black Friday deals run through November 30.

Here’s the link again:

West Marine Black Friday Deals

Best wishes to you and your family for a happy and relaxing Thanksgiving.

— from Phil Friedman and the crew at Port Royal Marketing

Copyright © 2025 by Phil Friedman ― All Rights Reserved.

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Right now, you can find serious discounts on a large variety of items.

From electronics, marine batteries, safety gear to inflatables, outboards, and apparel.

Got something in mind for the perfect holiday gift? Maybe a new marine grade BBQ? Foul weather gear? FLIR night vision camera?

Check out all the Black Friday deals ⬇️

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Best wishes for a happy holiday season.

— from Phil Friedman and the crew at Port Royal Marketing

Copyright © 2025 by Phil Friedman ― All Rights Reserved.

Share the holiday cheer with a boating friend:

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[Sponsored Content]

Most operating problems on a boat can be traced to its electrical system. Water — especially seawater — and electrical components are not comfortable companions. And introducing vibration into the mix,when running, makes things worse.

The antidote to these common operating problems comes in the form of sound design, skillful installation, and sensible maintenance. Which, unfortunately when it comes to boat and yacht electrical systems, are too often in short supply. Notwithstanding widespread knowledge of, and reference to marine industry standards such as those of ABYC and ISO, far too many production boats still come from their manufacturers with poorly thought out and less than optimally installed electrics. And if your boat or yacht is more than ten years old … well, enough said.

Admittedly, the situation is much improved these days over what it was, say twenty years or more ago. But the recreational marine industry could, as a whole, do significantly better, and some boat owners find themselves feeling frustrated and, at times, even anxious when their boat’s lights flicker, the bilge pump fails, the GPS goes down, or the engine won't turn over.

If that sounds uncomfortably familiar, take a moment to imagine what it would be like to really understand your boat's vital electrical system or be able to confidently troubleshoot most problems on your own. Even if you’re not a DIY kinda guy, wouldn’t it be great to at least know whether or not you’re getting a good job, fairly priced from a boatyard or a mobile tech?

The irony of the situation is that, of all the failures suffered in boats and yachts, electrical malfunctions, due to one cause or another, are by far the most common. Yet, they are among the most readily prevented and corrected ― if, that is, you know what you’re doing. And if you follow the accepted standards of the industry which have emerged over the past couple decades — such as those propogated by ABYC in North America or ISO in Europe.

Boat Electrics 101 is taught by Nigel Calder and Jan Athenstädt, acknowledged experts who have fifty years combined experience in boat and yacht electrics. And the course they’ve created can guide you reliably on your journey from being a concerned neophyte to emerging as a skilled, knowledgeable journeyman-level boat electrician.

Enroll in BoatHowTo

This course isn’t just about textbook theory; it’s packed with practical insight and real-world experience. Sixty-three self-paced core video lessons (plus quizzes, transcript, notes, and bonus material), lead students from the basics of electricity through to systems design, installation, maintenance, and repair. Bonus lessons discuss topics such as alternative energy, LED lighting, and Lithium batteries.

Boat Electrics 101 covers foundational topics, such as wiring selection, assembling proper connections, protecting vulnerable equipment from splashes and rain, battery selection and efficiency-enhancing installations, as well as how to perform safe and durable equipment installations.

After working through their basic course, a student will be in a position to:

• Assess his or her boat's systems regarding potential safety hazards.

• Fix and maintain the boat’s electrics like an expert.

• Save money by either doing the work themself or by understanding the scope of work and avoiding being overcharged by a boatyard or a contractor..

• Stay up to date on advances in technology which optimize efficiency and reliability.

For those who want to step up beyond the 100-level (including boatyard techs already working with electrical systems) BoatHowTo’s Advanced Marine Electrics course is comprised of 13 modules that reach well beyond basic DC systems to such topics as generators and AC current aboard, corrosion prevention, lightning protection, digital switching systems, and electric propulsion.

Together Boat Electrics 101 and its follow up course, Advanced Marine Electrics, constitute a complete, structured training program in boat and yacht electrics for both DIY enthusiasts and marine industry professionals. Additionally, working professionals can obtain supplementary continuing education credits (CEUs) and official certification.

All electrical techniques taught in BoatHowTo courses conform to ABYC E-11 and the ISO 13297 standards, which cover the principal electrical systems on small craft in North America and Europe.

To date, reportedly more than 1,200 students have passed through BoatHowTo electrics courses, both basic and advanced combined. And the courses are very reasonably priced — especially if you bundle the Electrics 101 with the Advanced Marine Electrics.

So, if you’re interested in leveling up your electrics acumen, use the button below to begin your journey to mastery of your boat’s electrical system, today. Sooner is always better than later.

— Fair winds and safe harbors

Copyright © 2024 by Port Royal Marketing LLC ― All Rights Reserved

Enroll in BoatHowTo

[Please note: open access to this section is
available only to premium-level subscribers.]

Welcome to Marine Master Classes, a premium section of For Yacht Builders, Buyers, and Owners.

In this space, we offer both live and prerecorded master classes, mini-courses, and podcasts, dealing with a broad range of topics in boatbuilding, boatyard operations, marine small-business management, and other topics we believe will be of interest to many of our subscribers. The live classes will be available by reservation only and generally limited to a dozen or fewer community members at a time, to facilitate a higher level of meaningful interaction. All sessions will be led by acknowledged experts in the relevant field. Watch the 2026 events schedule updates, to appear here soon. I look forward to seeing you on the inside.

— Phil Friedman, Editor and Publisher

As she began to take shape several decades ago, the Noka, the first of my Kodiak Cruiser™ series, promised early on to be something special, named for the Ojibway totemic symbol of strength and courage, “the bear”.

This photo from the Elgin County, Ontario archives was sent to me recently by reader Chris Redman. Its arrival brought with it a flood of memories of a much younger me on deck, as she sat on the hard during construction in a Port Stanley, Ontario, boatyard.

With a broad turtleback main deck, a bow well for safely and securely handling head sails and anchor gear, a powerful wishbone cutter rig, and 15 long tons displacement on a 33-foot waterline, the Noka was stout and steady, designed and built for real work as much as for her handsome look.

Her “turtleback” main deck was more than a stylistic flourish; it was a feature specifically intended to eliminate the vulnerable cabin-trunk-to-deck joint, one that additionally provided her with water-tight reserve stability to well past a 115-degree heel. The Noka was not a yacht that would give up easily.

The heart of the Noka was her Great Aft Cabin, which had a dining table that sat six, two full-length settees, and a small Westerbeke diesel, tucked away beneath the raised sole and so well insulated you could carry on a conversation underway.

For seven years, my wife Susan and I lived aboard and cruised in the Noka. She was our home, as well as our secure traveling companion, truly a boat for all seasons and all reasons.

When the time came to start our family, we knew Noka wasn’t a “weekend boat” and that she deserved more than to sit tied to a dock. Selling her was the right thing to do, just not an easy decision.

Sadly, I lost track of the Noka after she left our hands, although I’ve no doubt she carried her next owner and crew just as faithfully as she carried and protected us. Even now, I can “feel” the solid comfort of her wheel in my hands, and picture her, at times, sliding silently along, across gentle swells and, at other times, driving to windward through steep, not-so-gentle chops, a bone in her teeth.

Yes, some boats fade from memory, while others become part of you. And when the right photo turns up, you realize just how fortunate you are to carry memories of one or more of those special vessels with you.

Do you carry memories of a favorite boat? What was her name? And what made her special in your eyes? Tell us in the comments.

— Phil Friedman

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For more technical details of the Noka, plus a gallery of additional photos, see ⬇️

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Copyright © 2025 by Phil Friedman and Port Royal Group — All Rights Reserved